``Oktoberfest’’ has started, as usual, in September. The event is billed as a folk festival and the largest celebration of Bavarian culture, though most visitors are only there for the beer.

Munich’s local council Web site proudly proclaims the area’s cultural credentials, including having ``world class’’ orchestras and opera, staging the 1972 Summer Olympics and being the location of the film studio where ``Das Boot’’ was shot.

Quite how much any of this matters to the 6,000 souls who packed into the Schottenhamel tent for the opening ceremony on Sept. 16 is anybody’s guess. High culture is one thing: the all- important business of getting that first beer is something else. Any concern about what month it is vanishes after a few drinks.

If Mr. Spock were watching, he’d probably declare it fascinating evidence that humans are essentially illogical.

First, a mustachioed man appears with a menacing hammer to huge applause. (This gentleman is the mayor of Munich, Christian Ude.) He takes a swing at a beer barrel to bash a hole in it. After suitable comedy and due ceremony he yells out ``O’zapft is!’’ which confirms the keg is tapped.

It is only then that beer can be served to 100,000 people on the 100-acre site. Waitresses rush out carrying 10 or more one- liter glasses each and serious imbibing starts on an industrial scale as if the world will end in the next 10 minutes.

Figures?

Visitors at last year’s 172nd Oktoberfest spent 955 million euros ($1.2 billion) on accommodation, public transport, shopping and, above all, 6 million liters of beer, 481,000 chickens, 560,000 pork knuckles and 95 oxen, according to the organizers.

You might wonder who of the 12,000 people working on the event has the job of counting. It’s a fair guess many customers don’t know how much they’ve had: the beer is specially brewed with a 6 or 7 percent alcohol content.

The festival also celebrates Bavarian tradition of all kinds: agriculture, archery, industry and horse racing. An open-air concert of oompah bands, involving 400 musicians, takes place on the second Sunday. It’s culture, but not as we know it.

Some of the traditional Bavarian garb, including the low-cut, lacy ``dirndl’’ worn by the waitresses and local women, are now being sold as fashion items with prices of up to 4,000 euros.

It’s difficult to look sophisticated in a dirndl, just as it’s hard to be cool in the middle of thousands of people swaying in line, singing drinking songs and eating sausages. It usually starts with clinking of glasses to amiable cries of ``Prost!’’ (``Cheers!’’) and ends with even more friendly dancing on tables.

The 14 beer tents are surrounded by a 200-stand fair featuring everything from a flea circus to stomach-churning rides. (You may feel even less cool if you go on the rides after drinking.)

Munich has surrounded the FIFA World Cup with months of cultural events and celebrations of the 250th birthday of Mozart, though we can safely assume that many would-be visitors will be more appreciative of some survival tips than a cultural briefing.

The Rules:

1. Getting a table is the main thing. You won’t get served unless you have a place. Getting a reservation is ideal, because an increasing number of tables are booked a year in advance. If you haven’t got one, be prepared to turn up early.

2. As an alternative, try out any of Munich’s peaceful biergartens, which are often less crowded at festival time.

3. The ``tents’’ are like giant warehouses, each with its own atmosphere. Take time to try a few. The Hippodrom has a nightclub vibe, Hacker has a late-night rock band; Weinzelt specializes in wine, Ochsenbraterei serves beef dishes and Fischer-Vroni fish.

4. Expect to pay between 6.95 and 7.50 euros a liter for beer.

5. Being a good Oktoberfest bluffer means that you need to be able to explain its name. The first festival was held in 1810 to honor Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig’s October marriage to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen. Its date was later moved up to take advantage of better weather.

6. The Web site’s mentions of ``celebrity-spotting’’ at the festival relates mainly to German TV and sporting stars such as Boris Becker. The best we can do this year is Paris Hilton. Now there’s culture and class for you.

The Oktoberfest continues through Oct. 3.

Mark Beech